How to Winterize your trailer.
Ok this is LONG !! But if you dont know how to winterixe your camper this can help.
NOTE-- NEVER USE AUTOMOTIVE ANTIFREEZE!!!!!!
IT IS POISON -- ALWAYS USE RV ANTIFREEZE.
Get 2 gallons of RV antifreeze.
It costs less than $4 at Walmart or the RV isle in many dept stores
and RV stores.
Your dealer should have shown you drain and bypass valves in
various places throughout the trailer.
Here is my short course in winterizing.
When you winterize depends on where you live.
In Tennessee we can have freezing weather any time from
mid October on. You can put a space heater in there
on the first few cold nights and open the cabinets so the heat
can reach the water lines and stave off the first few freezes
if you are trying to extend your camping season. IF you do this
be sure your waste water holding tanks are empty!
Start by accessing your fresh water tank.
Do that by raising your bed mattress and left plywood panel
(on a frond bed model)
or look under the left dinette seat in a front table model.
Note the braided hose that runs from the lower corner of the white fresh
water tank over to your water pump.
That is the suction or inlet hose to your water pump.
See the fitting on your water pump where that hose connects?
I advise you to go to an RV dealer and buy a fitting like that.
At that time you should also buy about 4 feet of that same
braided hose.
(Most any 1/2" inside diameter hose will work here.)
We're calling that new hose and fitting your "antifreeze hose".
Now some folks will say you can put a 3 way valve in the
suction line and not have
to remove that fitting each fall but it's easy to remove
and so I have not bothered to buy and install another valve.
You also need about 2 gallons of RV antifreeze.
While you've got your head under the mattress or dinette seat looking
at the water tank and pump you might as well open the water tank
drain valve. The water tank drain valve is on the corner of the
tank nearest you and sticks through the floor.
Mine turns 1/2 turn or 180 degrees
to go from closed to open. Leave it open all winter.
You might want to crank up the tongue jack a bit to facilitate
more complete draining of the tank.
Make sure the water pump is off.
Open a faucet and let all pressure out then go outside and
open the outside cover on your water heater and remove the
large white plastic plug near the bottom of the tank.
It requires a large socket but should not be all that tight.
Some folks have discovered you can probably use your tire
lug wrench to remove the plug! Don't forget to open
a faucet 1st and let out pressure or you'll get soaked when
you remove the water heater drain plug!
Leave it out all winter.
(The Asian lady beetles have become a problem in some areas.
Leaving out the plug may allow some of them to find a winter
home in your water heater. It might be a good idea to replace
the plug after it's thoroughly drained or put a wad of cloth
in the hole. That will allow water to seep out but also keep
out the #$%@! bugs.)
Remember now you cannot turn on the water heater with no
water in it!! You might want to put a piece of tape over
the switch so you don't forget and turn it on by accident
or better yet, remove the water heater fuse.
Open the cabinet under your bathroom sink and see if you see 2
valves in the water lines under there.
Open them and let the water drain out. You might open the basin
faucet for a moment so air can get in there and the water will
drain out quicker.
Close the drain valves under there once the water has
drained.
There might be another set of drain valves under the sink or
under the bed somewhere?? I forget. If you find them you
can open them for a bit and let the water out. Close them
when you finish.
NOTE: you don't have to drain the water lines but it saves
you a little antifreeze if you already have the water out of there
when you put in the antifreeze.
Now go back to the water pump/fresh water tank area (under the
mattress or front dinette seat) and look
at the styrofoam covered water heater tank.
There should be a valve where the LOWER water line
connects to the water heater tank (on the INSIDE of the
trailer) -- under the bed or dinette.
Turn that valve all the way from it's current position.
(Probably 180 degrees but I'm not sure.)
That is the water heater bypass valve.
It routs water from the water pump, bypassing the water heater,
and feeds water directly into the hot water lines.
This allows you to pump anitfreeze into the hot water lines
but not into the hot water heater.
Lots of other brands have to add this bypass valve themselves but the SC
company includes it. (So far at least.)
NOTE-- we've been told that 2006 models may have 3 valves on the
water heater tank. If your water heater has 3 valves connected to
it, you'll need to turn all 3 of them to bypass the water heater tank.
Once you've drained your hot water heater AND placed it in
bypass mode--
Unscrew the hose fitting on the suction or inlet side of your water pump.
That is the braided line that comes from the fresh water tank.
Attach your new 4 foot "antifreeze hose" and fitting to the water pump.
Set a jug of RV antifreeze close by.
Make sure all faucets and water line drains are closed.
Stick the end of the hose into the jug of antifreeze and turn on
your water pump.
If you don't see it draw pink up to the pump- be sure all pressure
is out of the system. Open a faucet briefly to let any pressure out
and the pump should prime itself and you'll see pink fill the
line coming out of the jug.
It should run for a few seconds and then build pressure and shut off.
If it tries to empty the jug you've left a drain or faucet open somewhere!
Now starting at the farthest point -- probably the shower --
open each faucet for a moment and let it run until you see
pink antifreeze come out. Don't forget the inside shower head.
Don't forget to do both hot and cold sides of everything.
Flush the toilet until it runs pink.
Remember the outside shower if you have one and the kitchen sink.
This last step is a bit tricky.
TURN OFF THE WATER PUMP.
Briefly open a faucet just a crack and let "most" of the pressure out.
Now go outside and use your finger or a screwdriver in
the garden hose connection. You want to gently push in
on the check valve and see pink antifreeze run out. Careful
or you'll get squirted doing this!
Some folks find that the darn check valve will get un-seated
and stick open at this point.
Try this trick- my trailer has a cold water line drain located under
the sink area. I open that drain and go outside to the garden
hose connection. I use one finger to push in on the check valve
and put my lips over my fingertip and blow. It's awkward but
it works. I can blow the water out of that part of the line
so I know it won't be able to freeze.
This method avoids the dreaded "un-seated check valve."!
Be sure and screw the cap back on the garden hose hook up when done.
Another way to winterize this outside hose connection is to
be sure ALL pressure is out of the system.
Open and then close a faucet to let out all pressure.
You can now easily push in on the check valve where the garden hose
would connect. While you are standing to the side and holding your
finger on the check valve- have a helper BRIEFLY turn the water pump
on and back off. You should get a squirt of clear water and then pink
antifreeze. As soon as you see pink you can remove your
finger! Replace the cap when done.
If you are one of the unlucky ones and your check valve comes
apart anyway--
See the file called "city water check valve.pdf" near the
top of the files section to find out how to put the
@#$%^@! check valve back together. (A BIG tip of the old ball cap
to Sam for that file!)
That's just about it.
Turn off the water pump and re-connect it to your (empty) fresh water tank.
Put some tape over the water pump switch so you don't turn it
on and run the pump dry or remove the fuse.
Pour a cup or so of antifreeze down the shower drain,
bathroom sink drain and kitchen sink drain.
Empty your gray and black water tanks.
Some folks recommend pouring a quart down the toilet and a quart down the
sink drain so there is some antifreeze in the bottom of both
holding tanks. It's up to you. I skipped that last step and
only needed 1 gallon of antifreeze to do my entire trailer.
It took me about the same time to DO as it just took me
to type how to do it for you ;-))
Really, it's a 20 minute job if you have the extra fitting
and hose so you can let the water pump do the work.
Next spring-- put some teflon tape or teflon pipe dope on the
white drain fitting and replace it in your water heater.
Do not over tighten.
Check it for leaks after you pressurize the system.
Don't forget to close the drain valve in your fresh water tank.
Don't forget to turn the water heater bypass valve(s) back to normal.
Put some water in your fresh water tank.
Turn on the pump.
Open each faucet until clear water comes out clear.
The water pump will likely run for a few minutes as it
is re-filling the water heater.
If it runs for hours you probably forgot to put
the drain plug back in the water heater!
Check for leaks everywhere but especially the drain plug
at the water heater.
If you have city water nearby and want to speed up the process
you can hook up to city water and let that re-fill your
water heater.
It's probably a good idea to put a cup of chlorine bleach
in the water tank along with about 5 gallons of water.
Run that through the pipes to sanitize them.
Flush the pipes with fresh water after you do that.
See the files area and read the "sanitizing" file for
complete directions.
You will most likely notice an odor and some foaming from the water
the first time you go camping next year. The antifreeze did that.
It normally goes away after a day or 2 of using the water system.
We take a blue 7 gallon water jug from Wal-Mart for our drinking
water on the first trip and any time we are leery of the local water.
Don't forget to remove the 2 main fuses (top center) of your power
center. Also remove the 1 amp fuse for the LP Gas detector.
Turn off the little amplifier for the TV antenna.
If you have a battery disconnect switch you can open that
and not have to remove fuses.
The reason for removing fuses is these things will slowly drain
your battery.
A dead battery may freeze and burst. It's a BIG mess.
You don't want your battery to freeze and completely discharging a
battery shortens it's life.
Some folks remove the battery. I do not. I check the water and
once or twice I will run an extension cord out to the trailer
and replace the main fuses for a day so the power center can
top up the charge in the battery. If your trailer is kept at a storage
lot you may want to remove the battery for anti-theft protection.
We often camp in February and again March or April and May.
Our battery doesn't sit long enough to need a top up!
When we plug in the trailer to get the refrigerator cold the power
center will charge the battery for our next trip.
OK, did I forget anything??
Wes has good ideas for cold weather camping. See the files area.
When we camp in winter we don't use the water system.
We carry water in the before mentioned 7 gal jug and sit
a couple of gallon jugs of water in the shower for
flushing the john. A jug for tooth brushing is good too.
If it's going to be below freezing at night you'll need
to drain your holding tanks each day.
You might want to bring a "short" 5 gallon bucket for draining.
Be sure and empty your holding tanks completely and pour a bit of
antifreeze down any sink traps that you may
have put water in when get home.
It's not all that hard!
It's a good idea to crawl underneath and caulk or stuff
any large holes with steel wool. This will help keep the mice out.
A mouse can get into a dime size hole!
A mouse nest in your trailer is a stinky messy yucky thing.
NOTE-- NEVER USE AUTOMOTIVE ANTIFREEZE!!!!!!
IT IS POISON --
ALWAYS USE RV ANTIFREEZE.
Good Luck and Happy Camping!
Ok this is LONG !! But if you dont know how to winterixe your camper this can help.
NOTE-- NEVER USE AUTOMOTIVE ANTIFREEZE!!!!!!
IT IS POISON -- ALWAYS USE RV ANTIFREEZE.
Get 2 gallons of RV antifreeze.
It costs less than $4 at Walmart or the RV isle in many dept stores
and RV stores.
Your dealer should have shown you drain and bypass valves in
various places throughout the trailer.
Here is my short course in winterizing.
When you winterize depends on where you live.
In Tennessee we can have freezing weather any time from
mid October on. You can put a space heater in there
on the first few cold nights and open the cabinets so the heat
can reach the water lines and stave off the first few freezes
if you are trying to extend your camping season. IF you do this
be sure your waste water holding tanks are empty!
Start by accessing your fresh water tank.
Do that by raising your bed mattress and left plywood panel
(on a frond bed model)
or look under the left dinette seat in a front table model.
Note the braided hose that runs from the lower corner of the white fresh
water tank over to your water pump.
That is the suction or inlet hose to your water pump.
See the fitting on your water pump where that hose connects?
I advise you to go to an RV dealer and buy a fitting like that.
At that time you should also buy about 4 feet of that same
braided hose.
(Most any 1/2" inside diameter hose will work here.)
We're calling that new hose and fitting your "antifreeze hose".
Now some folks will say you can put a 3 way valve in the
suction line and not have
to remove that fitting each fall but it's easy to remove
and so I have not bothered to buy and install another valve.
You also need about 2 gallons of RV antifreeze.
While you've got your head under the mattress or dinette seat looking
at the water tank and pump you might as well open the water tank
drain valve. The water tank drain valve is on the corner of the
tank nearest you and sticks through the floor.
Mine turns 1/2 turn or 180 degrees
to go from closed to open. Leave it open all winter.
You might want to crank up the tongue jack a bit to facilitate
more complete draining of the tank.
Make sure the water pump is off.
Open a faucet and let all pressure out then go outside and
open the outside cover on your water heater and remove the
large white plastic plug near the bottom of the tank.
It requires a large socket but should not be all that tight.
Some folks have discovered you can probably use your tire
lug wrench to remove the plug! Don't forget to open
a faucet 1st and let out pressure or you'll get soaked when
you remove the water heater drain plug!
Leave it out all winter.
(The Asian lady beetles have become a problem in some areas.
Leaving out the plug may allow some of them to find a winter
home in your water heater. It might be a good idea to replace
the plug after it's thoroughly drained or put a wad of cloth
in the hole. That will allow water to seep out but also keep
out the #$%@! bugs.)
Remember now you cannot turn on the water heater with no
water in it!! You might want to put a piece of tape over
the switch so you don't forget and turn it on by accident
or better yet, remove the water heater fuse.
Open the cabinet under your bathroom sink and see if you see 2
valves in the water lines under there.
Open them and let the water drain out. You might open the basin
faucet for a moment so air can get in there and the water will
drain out quicker.
Close the drain valves under there once the water has
drained.
There might be another set of drain valves under the sink or
under the bed somewhere?? I forget. If you find them you
can open them for a bit and let the water out. Close them
when you finish.
NOTE: you don't have to drain the water lines but it saves
you a little antifreeze if you already have the water out of there
when you put in the antifreeze.
Now go back to the water pump/fresh water tank area (under the
mattress or front dinette seat) and look
at the styrofoam covered water heater tank.
There should be a valve where the LOWER water line
connects to the water heater tank (on the INSIDE of the
trailer) -- under the bed or dinette.
Turn that valve all the way from it's current position.
(Probably 180 degrees but I'm not sure.)
That is the water heater bypass valve.
It routs water from the water pump, bypassing the water heater,
and feeds water directly into the hot water lines.
This allows you to pump anitfreeze into the hot water lines
but not into the hot water heater.
Lots of other brands have to add this bypass valve themselves but the SC
company includes it. (So far at least.)
NOTE-- we've been told that 2006 models may have 3 valves on the
water heater tank. If your water heater has 3 valves connected to
it, you'll need to turn all 3 of them to bypass the water heater tank.
Once you've drained your hot water heater AND placed it in
bypass mode--
Unscrew the hose fitting on the suction or inlet side of your water pump.
That is the braided line that comes from the fresh water tank.
Attach your new 4 foot "antifreeze hose" and fitting to the water pump.
Set a jug of RV antifreeze close by.
Make sure all faucets and water line drains are closed.
Stick the end of the hose into the jug of antifreeze and turn on
your water pump.
If you don't see it draw pink up to the pump- be sure all pressure
is out of the system. Open a faucet briefly to let any pressure out
and the pump should prime itself and you'll see pink fill the
line coming out of the jug.
It should run for a few seconds and then build pressure and shut off.
If it tries to empty the jug you've left a drain or faucet open somewhere!
Now starting at the farthest point -- probably the shower --
open each faucet for a moment and let it run until you see
pink antifreeze come out. Don't forget the inside shower head.
Don't forget to do both hot and cold sides of everything.
Flush the toilet until it runs pink.
Remember the outside shower if you have one and the kitchen sink.
This last step is a bit tricky.
TURN OFF THE WATER PUMP.
Briefly open a faucet just a crack and let "most" of the pressure out.
Now go outside and use your finger or a screwdriver in
the garden hose connection. You want to gently push in
on the check valve and see pink antifreeze run out. Careful
or you'll get squirted doing this!
Some folks find that the darn check valve will get un-seated
and stick open at this point.
Try this trick- my trailer has a cold water line drain located under
the sink area. I open that drain and go outside to the garden
hose connection. I use one finger to push in on the check valve
and put my lips over my fingertip and blow. It's awkward but
it works. I can blow the water out of that part of the line
so I know it won't be able to freeze.
This method avoids the dreaded "un-seated check valve."!
Be sure and screw the cap back on the garden hose hook up when done.
Another way to winterize this outside hose connection is to
be sure ALL pressure is out of the system.
Open and then close a faucet to let out all pressure.
You can now easily push in on the check valve where the garden hose
would connect. While you are standing to the side and holding your
finger on the check valve- have a helper BRIEFLY turn the water pump
on and back off. You should get a squirt of clear water and then pink
antifreeze. As soon as you see pink you can remove your
finger! Replace the cap when done.
If you are one of the unlucky ones and your check valve comes
apart anyway--
See the file called "city water check valve.pdf" near the
top of the files section to find out how to put the
@#$%^@! check valve back together. (A BIG tip of the old ball cap
to Sam for that file!)
That's just about it.
Turn off the water pump and re-connect it to your (empty) fresh water tank.
Put some tape over the water pump switch so you don't turn it
on and run the pump dry or remove the fuse.
Pour a cup or so of antifreeze down the shower drain,
bathroom sink drain and kitchen sink drain.
Empty your gray and black water tanks.
Some folks recommend pouring a quart down the toilet and a quart down the
sink drain so there is some antifreeze in the bottom of both
holding tanks. It's up to you. I skipped that last step and
only needed 1 gallon of antifreeze to do my entire trailer.
It took me about the same time to DO as it just took me
to type how to do it for you ;-))
Really, it's a 20 minute job if you have the extra fitting
and hose so you can let the water pump do the work.
Next spring-- put some teflon tape or teflon pipe dope on the
white drain fitting and replace it in your water heater.
Do not over tighten.
Check it for leaks after you pressurize the system.
Don't forget to close the drain valve in your fresh water tank.
Don't forget to turn the water heater bypass valve(s) back to normal.
Put some water in your fresh water tank.
Turn on the pump.
Open each faucet until clear water comes out clear.
The water pump will likely run for a few minutes as it
is re-filling the water heater.
If it runs for hours you probably forgot to put
the drain plug back in the water heater!
Check for leaks everywhere but especially the drain plug
at the water heater.
If you have city water nearby and want to speed up the process
you can hook up to city water and let that re-fill your
water heater.
It's probably a good idea to put a cup of chlorine bleach
in the water tank along with about 5 gallons of water.
Run that through the pipes to sanitize them.
Flush the pipes with fresh water after you do that.
See the files area and read the "sanitizing" file for
complete directions.
You will most likely notice an odor and some foaming from the water
the first time you go camping next year. The antifreeze did that.
It normally goes away after a day or 2 of using the water system.
We take a blue 7 gallon water jug from Wal-Mart for our drinking
water on the first trip and any time we are leery of the local water.
Don't forget to remove the 2 main fuses (top center) of your power
center. Also remove the 1 amp fuse for the LP Gas detector.
Turn off the little amplifier for the TV antenna.
If you have a battery disconnect switch you can open that
and not have to remove fuses.
The reason for removing fuses is these things will slowly drain
your battery.
A dead battery may freeze and burst. It's a BIG mess.
You don't want your battery to freeze and completely discharging a
battery shortens it's life.
Some folks remove the battery. I do not. I check the water and
once or twice I will run an extension cord out to the trailer
and replace the main fuses for a day so the power center can
top up the charge in the battery. If your trailer is kept at a storage
lot you may want to remove the battery for anti-theft protection.
We often camp in February and again March or April and May.
Our battery doesn't sit long enough to need a top up!
When we plug in the trailer to get the refrigerator cold the power
center will charge the battery for our next trip.
OK, did I forget anything??
Wes has good ideas for cold weather camping. See the files area.
When we camp in winter we don't use the water system.
We carry water in the before mentioned 7 gal jug and sit
a couple of gallon jugs of water in the shower for
flushing the john. A jug for tooth brushing is good too.
If it's going to be below freezing at night you'll need
to drain your holding tanks each day.
You might want to bring a "short" 5 gallon bucket for draining.
Be sure and empty your holding tanks completely and pour a bit of
antifreeze down any sink traps that you may
have put water in when get home.
It's not all that hard!
It's a good idea to crawl underneath and caulk or stuff
any large holes with steel wool. This will help keep the mice out.
A mouse can get into a dime size hole!
A mouse nest in your trailer is a stinky messy yucky thing.
NOTE-- NEVER USE AUTOMOTIVE ANTIFREEZE!!!!!!
IT IS POISON --
ALWAYS USE RV ANTIFREEZE.
Good Luck and Happy Camping!